Dressed in an elegant gown and sparkling glass slippers, Cinderella went to the ball—and found herself a prince.
This much-loved fairytale highlights what researcher Neil Hester calls “the transformative power of dress:” Cinderella became a more magical, alluring version of herself because of the clothing she wore.
Anyi Ma, an assistant professor of management and human resources at the Wisconsin School of Business, examines the why and the how behind clothes and identity. Dress sits at the intersection of several of her research interests: agency, how employees “take charge” at work; personal control; and gender issues in professional settings. It led her to one big question: How does what we wear shape how we see ourselves and how others see us?
Ma hit the books, pouring over the literature on this topic and connecting the dots others don’t see. She shares three big takeaways from her exploration and what they may mean for you and your closet.
More power, greater expression
Ma: One avenue of this research explores how those with more power in society subsequently had greater means of expression and communication, while those with less societal power had fewer ways to express themselves and to communicate (Hester & Hehman, 2023). For example, wealthy elites might signal status through lavish garments or designer labels, while marginalized groups may have been forced to adopt uniforms or conform to stricter dress codes.
Clothing becomes a “primary vector” for that expression, especially when we think about social norms around gender. This is sort of a natural extension of my work, which focuses on inclusivity. The way you dress really influences how people perceive you, and this is particularly relevant when we think of the spectrum of masculinity and femininity. For instance, research suggests that men and women who are more “androgynous” (in this usage, meaning able to combine stereotypical feminine qualities, like warmth and kindness, and stereotypical masculine qualities, such as independence and assertiveness), are more positively evaluated in the workplace and in leadership.
This blend can be reflected in outfits that mix traditional gendered cues, such as a structured blazer paired with tailored pants, or a crisp button-down shirt worn with minimalist accessories and loafers. These kinds of ensembles project balance: confident and approachable, professional yet authentic.
Takeaway: Gendered expectations in dress can constrain how people express themselves—but breaking out of those boxes (and blending masculine and feminine traits) may boost how competent or well-liked you’re perceived to be.
What we wear, how we act
Ma: Let’s talk about the phenomenon of enclothed cognition—that’s the idea that when we wear something, it changes how we act.
For example, one study found that wearing a lab coat leads people to be more attentive and careful, but only when they were told that the coat belonged to a scientist, as opposed to another occupation (Adam & Galinsky, 2012). A different study found that people who wore a uniform were more likely to shoot unarmed targets (Mendoza & Parks-Stamm, 2019).
And a COVID-era study found that remote workers wearing “home attire” experienced increased authenticity and engagement (Bailey et. al., 2022).
Takeaway: What you wear doesn’t just matter for others—it also matters for you. If you want to feel more focused, calm, creative, or confident, your outfit might give you a helpful nudge. The key is to dress in a way that matches the mindset you want to embody.
What dress reveals, signals
Ma: Clothing also plays a major role in how we interpret other people’s intentions and traits—even if they never say a word. For example, a person’s personality is revealed by wearing a Rolex that signals wealth to others, while glasses signal intelligence (Gosling et al., 2002).
But here’s the twist: These signals don’t have to be intentional. For example, I don’t wear glasses to signal my intelligence, but others might still see it that way. This highlights how dress often functions less as deliberate communication from the wearer and more as a set of assumptions made by the observer.
In a recent comprehensive review on dress and person perception (Hester & Hehman, 2023), researchers found that people can use dress to judge others in four primary ways. First, to understand someone’s social category; second, to infer how someone else is thinking and feeling; third, to infer a person’s financial status; and finally, to infer someone’s preferences and sense of style (Elliot et al., 2013; Kayser et al., 2010).
For example, on a Badger game day in Madison, a sea of red and white instantly signals who is part of the University of Wisconsin–Madison community—no introductions needed. Wearing school colors is a quick way people convey their social category, showing group identity and school pride through dress.
Takeaway: Whether or not you intend to “say something” with your clothes, people are interpreting your choices. That doesn’t mean you have to dress to please everyone, but being aware of the messages your clothes may be sending can help you communicate more intentionally.